Volunteering in Uganda

(Meeting some of the boarding girls at PEAS Kira View Secondary School)

I came across PEAS a few years back when my son did a 3 week placement out here, indeed it was he who encouraged me to approach PEAS when I expressed interest in working somewhere in Africa and getting to know the local way of life.  He thought I would like Kampala.  I am grateful that the London office gave me a chance to help this growing charity which is now well established in Uganda with plans to grow in Zambia and in other parts of Africa where the rural poor, especially girls, cannot get an adequate secondary education.  PEAS stands for Promoting Equality in African Schools.  In its early days there were quite a few volunteers from the UK, but nowadays volunteering tends to be more about longer term placements where PEAS can directly benefit from the expertise provided as well as volunteers gaining by being given a clearly defined project.  I only hope my 2 month stay here proves as fruitful for PEAS as it will do for me.

I have learned so much already.  For instance, on my recent visit to Kira View Secondary School, a 3 hour drive east of Kampala, the students were in the middle of their mid-term exams. The girls were busy with their last minute revision, but the boys were chatting and more relaxed.  This did not seem unusual to me coming from the UK where such behaviour as a generalisation seems to be the norm. However, the reason, I was told, was more that the girls have to do chores when they go home in the evening whereas the boys do not and so are able to study.  This was supported by the fact that the girls who board (about 30% of the total) were in their boarding house chatting or resting.  Presumably they had done their revision the evening before.  Education here is really valued for obvious reasons, however, even in classes of 75 or more, it was impressive to see the students all focused on their teacher.  I am told behaviour management is not an issue.

First things first though .... my first impressions of Kampala. Well at first it seemed like a madhouse of a place!  Maybe I shouldn't have arrived on a Saturday night, but the 30 mile journey from the airport in Entebbe to the PEAS flat in Kampala took 2 1/2 hours.  It was a true assault on the senses.  Much of the journey was along Lake Victoria where many of the locals spend time at the weekends on the beech, and then cross over to the other side of the road to continue enjoying their spare time around street vendors, in bars, etc.  There was lots of loud music and merriment, not alcohol induced though as far as I could tell, and simply hundreds of bodabodas!

(I didn't take this photo but it sums up my first impressions quite well!)

A bodaboda is what the locals use for a taxi (the name stems from "border to border") and comprises a moped and a driver, usually without a helmet.  There are lots of "taxis" too which are 14 seater minibuses that stop anywhere and everywhere.  I'm not sure who drives more dangerously, the bodabodas or the taxis; I haven't yet summoned up the courage to travel via either form. I was grateful last Saturday night for my "special" (what we call a taxi in the UK) with its charming driver, Ronald.  In fact, the people here are all quite charming.  Despite my first impressions, they are laid back, the pace of life is very slow as it has to be in an equatorial climate, and I feel very safe walking along the sand packed streets around the flat during the day.  I am also pleased to see some rolling hills at last - Kampala, originally built on 7 hills, now encompasses about 12.  The other thing that struck me from the moment I arrived at the airport is that there is a lot of green here - roadsides are green, there are lots of palm trees and such, and even some maintained gardens.  It all contrasts quite strongly with the deep orange colour of the land.

The PEAS flat, after my 4 weeks of travel in an overland truck, seems luxurious.  No white fluffy towels, alas, (ref KSinSA.blogspot.com) but everything you would want in a place to stay for 2 months and more; there is even an adorable maid, "Doreen" (note to self, take photo of Doreen).  The view from the balcony is pretty good too.  I have to pay a small amount to stay here, but it is a lot cheaper than the cheapest of hotels that I would stay in, and I presume it covers all the costs incurred by PEAS for my stay.

(view from kitchen window)

The view from the back of the flat, from the kitchen window, I find interesting.  It is really voyeurism of an extended family.  I try not to watch their daily life but I can't help myself.  I think they own the small supermarket/corner shop I have been to a couple of times for water and beer.  The women spend a lot of time fetching water, washing and cooking.  One of the men spends a lot of time making tables - not sure what the rest do; I wonder if they have bodabodas?  There must be at least 4 young children who play well together in the sand.  The only toy I have seen is an old dusty sit-on plastic bus.  Today they were using wooden spoons and upturned crates for drums.  They seem very happy.  They are also incredibly clean and dress smartly.  Clothes and sheets are out drying everyday and they are eternally sweeping around their home.  There is a lot of sitting around too ... not sure what there is for everyone to do once they've cleaned and eaten. The locals do all seem to go to Church regularly; there are churches everywhere.  As I write I can hear the music from two nearby churches; it is Easter Monday.  Or maybe my neighbours like playing church music?

Yesterday I went to a service at a Bahai temple which is situated on top of one of the 7 original hills of Kampala.  I was taken there by two fellow PEAS workers last Sunday when I had only just arrived.  The service proved to be mesmerising - calm, no pomp and ceremony - just a few readings and an amazing choir made even more amazing by the wonderful acoustics and incredible setting.  All 9 doors were open to the views around Kampala.  It was the Bahai faith's New Year last Sunday, the Sunday closest to the March equinox.  As the religion is not directly Christian, rather one that attempts to encompass all God worshipping religions, I figured it would be relatively quiet yesterday, Easter Sunday.  Indeed it was, so quiet that only half the choir was there, but they were equally amazing.  One tenor sang a haunting solo. The quietness was in stark contrast to the 3 pentecostal churches I passed on my 45 minute walk back where all sorts of glorification of the Lord and Hallelujahs were being joyously expressed by preachers, congregations, and gospel singers.  

Bahaism is an odd faith but one that is allegedly growing faster than any other in poorer parts of the world.  It has about 5 million followers (some sources quote 7-9 million), but not many of them in Kampala yesterday!  Strange when this temple, the only one in Africa, is so beautiful.  A lot of money is made from providing the photo setting for wedding photos.  I suspect tithing is involved too.  When I was invited to go with the temple guides for an after service discussion, this being my second visit, I am afraid I made an excuse and a quick getaway.  I suspect it was nothing more than a kind invitation to learn more about the faith, but I didn't want to get involved.  Very pleased I had the opportunity to share two wonderful mornings with the followers of this strange religion; it was the temple and the choir though that I loved, not the religion.

I wonder what the next 7 weeks will bring..